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Old 1st May 2018, 6:02 AM DefaultWhenever I group the body and the shorts together the texture goes down to the legs. #1
Squidconqueror
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I decided to photoskin some shorts that I used to wear and moved the vertices around until I got the texture to where I where I nearly want it on the mesh and it still needs more work but when I regroup it the texture bleeds into the legs and i'm having a difficult time trying to fix because I don't know what to do. Here are some pictures to better describe my problem and the Milkshape file.
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Old 1st May 2018, 1:32 PM #2
Rosebine
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This is a rather easy fix. You did good for the mapping, it looks great.
Your shorts texture is misplaced, this is why it bleeds on the legs. The game will give a part of the uv map to the Top, one part to the Bottom.
I attached a picture I just did for you. Not exact, but if you look at it, you'll see what I mean.
I used the child nude skin. But it is the same for all ages.
The greenish part will be given to the bottom, so your shorts should not be placed higher, and should be contained within it. The whitesh part, will be for the Top. If a shirt texture is pulled lower than where the white ends, it will bleed on the Bottom texture. The reddish parts are saved for the arms, sleeves..bracelets...
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Old 1st May 2018, 8:05 PM #3
simmer22
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The mesh does have a rather unconventional UVmap, so you may get the best result with a separate "noblend" layer, just like when converting from TS3/TS4.

If you can use an ingame mesh, you'll often get a better result (And a lot less headache making the new mesh) if you fit the texture to the mesh. Use a program that lets you work with layers, and use the mesh program to check the texture.
Old 2nd May 2018, 4:34 AM #4
Squidconqueror
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebine
This is a rather easy fix. You did good for the mapping, it looks great.
Your shorts texture is misplaced, this is why it bleeds on the legs. The game will give a part of the uv map to the Top, one part to the Bottom.
I attached a picture I just did for you. Not exact, but if you look at it, you'll see what I mean.
I used the child nude skin. But it is the same for all ages.
The greenish part will be given to the bottom, so your shorts should not be placed higher, and should be contained within it. The whitesh part, will be for the Top. If a shirt texture is pulled lower than where the white ends, it will bleed on the Bottom texture. The reddish parts are saved for the arms, sleeves..bracelets...

I've done that unfortunately the texture still bleeds into the legs and the texture rides into the torso this time but I still appreciate your help all the same, I still wish that I fix this annoying so that I could finally test it out in Bodyshop and then the game. I'm still a newbie at meshing and texturing so stuff like this goes way over my head.
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Old 2nd May 2018, 4:39 AM #5
Squidconqueror
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmer22
The mesh does have a rather unconventional UVmap, so you may get the best result with a separate "noblend" layer, just like when converting from TS3/TS4.

If you can use an ingame mesh, you'll often get a better result (And a lot less headache making the new mesh) if you fit the texture to the mesh. Use a program that lets you work with layers, and use the mesh program to check the texture.

What's a noblend layer and i'm using the EA Maxis swimsuit mesh, I just made the shorts shorter and I had readjusted the UV to fit around the texture otherwise it would be distorted and just be all the place.
Old 2nd May 2018, 10:35 AM #6
simmer22
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Like I said, if you adjust the texture to fit the mesh, instead of adjusting the mesh to fit the texture, you don't have to make a new mesh (I'm also pretty sure that you can find shorter versions of the shorts as CC somewhere). It's just the matter of copy/pastaing from the original picture, and reshape in Photoshop, Gimp, or another program that can use layers. The pattern on the shorts is fairly simple to find as a plain pattern (try Colorlovers), so you could download a simple white or grey retexture of the maxis shorts, and use it as an overlay for the pattern. I tend to use a mix of those two when I recolor. It's much less work than having to make a new mesh every time...

Here's a tutorial on photoskinning: http://www.insimenator.org/index.php?topic=56575.0

How to make an extra layer is explained in this tutorial (I don't think they call it a noblend layer, but it's the same method) - https://serenity-fall.dreamwidth.org/1366.html
Old 2nd May 2018, 2:45 PM #7
Squidconqueror
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmer22
Like I said, if you adjust the texture to fit the mesh, instead of adjusting the mesh to fit the texture, you don't have to make a new mesh (I'm also pretty sure that you can find shorter versions of the shorts as CC somewhere). It's just the matter of copy/pastaing from the original picture, and reshape in Photoshop, Gimp, or another program that can use layers. The pattern on the shorts is fairly simple to find as a plain pattern (try Colorlovers), so you could download a simple white or grey retexture of the maxis shorts, and use it as an overlay for the pattern. I tend to use a mix of those two when I recolor. It's much less work than having to make a new mesh every time...

Here's a tutorial on photoskinning: http://www.insimenator.org/index.php?topic=56575.0

How to make an extra layer is explained in this tutorial (I don't think they call it a noblend layer, but it's the same method) - https://serenity-fall.dreamwidth.org/1366.html

Thanks for the help. There's a lot that I still haven't learned yet and to be fair the texture for the shorts is hard to find because I had them for so long. The main problem is how the shorts are layed out. It doesn't fit an EA/Maxis made texture and I would have remove a bunch of details and pattern on the texture to make it fit so i'm still trying to figure out a way to make it fit without sacrificing a lot of the details on the shorts. Here's what it looks like for example.
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Last edited by Squidconqueror : 2nd May 2018 at 11:50 PM.
Old 2nd May 2018, 10:58 PM #8
simmer22
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What I'd do is to pick a patch where the texture is least scrambled, and do a bit of copy/pasta to make a pattern from it. Then I'd use a close enough texture for the elastic band, and make a texture overlay for the top so it looks like elastic. Takes a bit of practice to get it right, but the result would be better. Those particular shorts don't look too bad for a first texturing project. I've worked on much worse...

Another thing you can do is to use the "transform" tool (Ctrl+T in Photoshop), particularly the "warp" tool. It lets you modify the texture by draggingparts of the picture to reshape it.

Anyhow, Just to give you an idea of how you can work around the mesh, I did a couple of quick 5-minute variants below - one (bottom) where I just used the "warp" tool to make the shorts look straighter, and another (top) where I did a (bad) copy/pasta to make a texture, found an elastic texture on the web, and mixed them together. Personally, I prefer the second method, because photoskinned clothes look best without to many wrinkles in all the wrong places. It's a bit more job, but worth it for the result. A third option is to use tools like the healing tool, clone stamp, etc. to fix the wrinkles, but this doesn't always work for patterned textures. I tend to use a mix of all these, depending on the picture I'm using as a base.
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Last edited by simmer22 : 2nd May 2018 at 11:30 PM.
Old 2nd May 2018, 11:45 PM #9
Squidconqueror
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Wow how did you make the shorts that straight? I know that you had used the transform tool and warped it but how did you make it look like that. I tried doing that myself but I just wound it making it worse. And where did you find the elastic texture and make the texture less wrinkly? Sorry for asking so many questions but as a beginner it would be nice if I learn stuff like that.
Old 3rd May 2018, 12:31 AM #10
simmer22
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I'm used to working like this, I've been doing photoskinning and fixing up textures for several years, so I know a lot of the tricks. It takes practice to get good, but these methods aren't too difficult to learn the basics of, and they're very useful to know.

The upper texture: The middle section to the left of the original texture is quite flat. I marked a square (With the freehand/straight selection tool), straightened it up (transform/rotate), copy/pasta'd it several times in a straight line (I'd clean it up a lot better for a proper texture, using a feathered brush and maybe some other tools o make the pattern look seamless - this was just a 5-minute thing), collapsed the layers (but not the background), and copied it down to make the pattern bigger. The elastic texture I found on Google, searched for "shorts white elastic" or some such (I can PM you the picture if you want). I marked and copy/pasta'd the elastic band as a separate layer, set it as "Overlay", erased the bottom part with an unsharp/feathered brush to wipe the sharp line, and that's it, really.

The bottom one was just the warp tool in Transform, stretching a bit here and there. You need to get to know the tool before you can use it properly, but it's not that hard. Depending on where you grab the texture when using the warp tool, you can transform various sections of the texture. It also helps to mark a selection around the picture you want to warp, and not just have a square selection. This gives you a bit more control. (Photoshop: Ctrl+T to get the Transform tool, then right-click inside the selection and choose "Warp". You get a 3x3 grid, and you can click and drag inside it in addition to using the "handles" in the corners to bend the outer parts). It's not perfect, and will warp and sometimes blur the pattern, but for small adjustments it works fine.
Last edited by simmer22 : 3rd May 2018 at 12:51 AM.
Old 3rd May 2018, 2:51 AM #11
Squidconqueror
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmer22
I'm used to working like this, I've been doing photoskinning and fixing up textures for several years, so I know a lot of the tricks. It takes practice to get good, but these methods aren't too difficult to learn the basics of, and they're very useful to know.

The upper texture: The middle section to the left of the original texture is quite flat. I marked a square (With the freehand/straight selection tool), straightened it up (transform/rotate), copy/pasta'd it several times in a straight line (I'd clean it up a lot better for a proper texture, using a feathered brush and maybe some other tools o make the pattern look seamless - this was just a 5-minute thing), collapsed the layers (but not the background), and copied it down to make the pattern bigger. The elastic texture I found on Google, searched for "shorts white elastic" or some such (I can PM you the picture if you want). I marked and copy/pasta'd the elastic band as a separate layer, set it as "Overlay", erased the bottom part with an unsharp/feathered brush to wipe the sharp line, and that's it, really.

The bottom one was just the warp tool in Transform, stretching a bit here and there. You need to get to know the tool before you can use it properly, but it's not that hard. Depending on where you grab the texture when using the warp tool, you can transform various sections of the texture. It also helps to mark a selection around the picture you want to warp, and not just have a square selection. This gives you a bit more control. (Photoshop: Ctrl+T to get the Transform tool, then right-click inside the selection and choose "Warp". You get a 3x3 grid, and you can click and drag inside it in addition to using the "handles" in the corners to bend the outer parts). It's not perfect, and will warp and sometimes blur the pattern, but for small adjustments it works fine.

Thanks for the tips,I may not understand parts of it but at least I now have the confident to learn them now that I learnt more about Photoskinning that wasn't really covered by the tutorials. Maybe if I get this done I would start making new textures although i'm a terrible artist but like the old saying goes practice makes perfect so all I could do is try it,watch videos,read about it ask questions then start learning how to make basic 3d meshes. This is what I got done on Photoshop in such a short period of time.
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Last edited by Squidconqueror : 3rd May 2018 at 3:13 AM.
Old 3rd May 2018, 4:16 PM #12
simmer22
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Maybe this video can help for pattern making? It's roughly how I do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AulxkPGvt1s
Old 3rd May 2018, 5:23 PM #13
Rosebine
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Pretty interesting...she got lucky though, it looked seamless without any efforts.
Though i am mostly interested by the last part, and those layer properties...I wonder if there is an equivalence for PaintShop pro.
The way she succeeds in keeping the shadows/folds etc, is neat. I'll have to check this out.
Oh! yes! There is...
Thanks, again Simmer22.

Je mange des girafes et je parle aussi français !...surtout :0)

Find all my old MTS Uploads, on my SFS ;)
Old 3rd May 2018, 9:05 PM #14
Squidconqueror
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmer22
Maybe this video can help for pattern making? It's roughly how I do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AulxkPGvt1s

Thanks,it looks easy enough to do but my textures are a little on the blurry side because I took the picture on a cheap tablet so i'm not sure if I could make good quality patterns with it such as the one shown in the video which is taken by a professional high end camera judging by the quality of the picture.
Old 3rd May 2018, 9:09 PM #15
Rosebine
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I'm sure you'd be able to find quite similar (pictures) shorts online. Then, you'd start with a much better image quality.

Je mange des girafes et je parle aussi français !...surtout :0)

Find all my old MTS Uploads, on my SFS ;)
Old 3rd May 2018, 9:29 PM #16
Squidconqueror
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebine
I'm sure you'd be able to find quite similar (pictures) shorts online. Then, you'd start with a much better image quality.

I had those shorts for years and years. I'm not sure I would be able to find a picture similar to it at least not that easily.
Old 3rd May 2018, 10:11 PM #17
simmer22
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Three different patterns on colorlovers you can use.
http://www.colourlovers.com/pattern/3172239/NeonChevs
http://www.colourlovers.com/pattern...5/you_zig_i_zag
http://www.colourlovers.com/pattern/1275961/zig_and_zag
(I didn't look very closely, but there's probably other zigzag patterns you can use that look more similar. It's very difficult to see the exact pattern from your pictures)

You can also make your own patterns on the site:
http://www.colourlovers.com/seamless

- if you color these (can be done on site by clicking "color this pattern", and "right-click/Save background" when they've got the right colors) and maybe scale them in a horizontal direction, you're pretty close to the original texture. Or (If I eye-balled the colors correctly) you can try the picture below. It's one of the patterns above just recolored and scaled horizontally, should be seamless. You can use the video above as a guide for how to make the shadow overlay.
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Last edited by simmer22 : 3rd May 2018 at 10:27 PM.
Old 4th May 2018, 1:07 AM #18
Squidconqueror
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmer22
Three different patterns on colorlovers you can use.
http://www.colourlovers.com/pattern/3172239/NeonChevs
http://www.colourlovers.com/pattern...5/you_zig_i_zag
http://www.colourlovers.com/pattern/1275961/zig_and_zag
(I didn't look very closely, but there's probably other zigzag patterns you can use that look more similar. It's very difficult to see the exact pattern from your pictures)

You can also make your own patterns on the site:
http://www.colourlovers.com/seamless

- if you color these (can be done on site by clicking "color this pattern", and "right-click/Save background" when they've got the right colors) and maybe scale them in a horizontal direction, you're pretty close to the original texture. Or (If I eye-balled the colors correctly) you can try the picture below. It's one of the patterns above just recolored and scaled horizontally, should be seamless. You can use the video above as a guide for how to make the shadow overlay.

Oh thank you so much for helping me out this much on this project. You've really gone over and beyond by tracking down this stuff although it's unnecessary. I'll see what I could do with it.
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